The definition of trim

At some point a surfboard longer than 9 feet is less of a longboard and more of something else.

I didn’t fully understand this until recently.

The first time this occurred to me was at San Onofre, I saw Skip Frye in the lot contemplating which of his Eagles to take out. He paddled out at a break a notable distance away from me. An hour later I snagged a wave and was clearly the closest to the peak. I rode the wave almost to the rocks when I started  a reverse pullout (about to spin the board to the left)… and there was Skip.

He had started from another peak (again… far away) and connected to the wave I was on. Of course I felt like a kook for not seeing him… but I couldn’t get my head around how far he had traveled. It was that wave that set a hook in me… what was it with these super long boards?

I kept looking at 11’+ pulled template boards… there’s even a blog dedicated to them.

My friend Jason Baffa let me take his Glider out for a few tiny peelers at Trestles one day and I was even more intrigued… is was notably different. It was a trim… machine.

I eventually asked Chris Christensen shape me the 11′ Glider in the picture to the left.

I’ve had this board for about a year and I’ve probably taken it out for 50% of my sessions in the last six months. I’ve had to try to NOT take it out… and force myself to take a different board.

This board is amazingly fun in surf from shin-high to chest-high and is one of the funnest boards I’ve ever surfed.

If there is a definition of “trim” it should be accompanied by a board with this length and template.

If you’re seeking a brand new way to experience waves, I recommend this shape.

Comments

6 Comments so far. Leave a comment below.
  1. Aloha,

    I just picked up a 10′ 0″ CC glider second hand and took for a quick post work sesh today. I’ve been experimenting with hull boards (CC submariner to be exact) which got me excited about the glider. It came with a 9″ greenough fin, but it almost felt to small. I usually put 10″ fins on my noseriders, but where this board is all about trimming I wasn’t for sure. Any suggestions?

    Mahalo nui loa

    • jmoriarty,

      When I picked up my Glider from Christensen he told me that Skip Frye (king of ultra-longboards) uses a really small fin. 7″. That seemed… and seems SO small to me. I started with a 9″ fin and now use an 8″ fin and I’m thinking about trying a 7″… here’s why… the rails on this board are SO long that they act as a large part of the steering so a smaller fin is more possible than you might think. It’s counterintuitive… but it’s working for me.

      • Sean Hookano-Briel,

        Right on jmoriarty!! It does make sense, I’m definitely going to experiment a little more with this fin setup then, before I try something smaller. I was curious cause on a bottom turn yesterday, it slid out a little on me. But thinking about it now, it was more due drawing a line without using the rails 😉 This is going to be fun learning :)

  2. jorge magalhaes,

    hello, I just buy a 10.5 cc glider, and asked Chris what is the appropriate fin, he advised me a 8.5 model skip, or the true ames model greenough 4-a. I ended up buying size 10.5 model true ames, cause i always used fins above 9, and I’m glad. But since your comments, I try to buy a smaller model. Thanks

    • jmoriarty,

      Jorge, In this case smaller is better. The reason is that the rail is SO long that it really holds the wave itself. I have larger fins on 6′ singlefins than I have on my 11′ Glider. Odd and counter-intuitive… but works.

      • Thanks for expressing your feelings on the big boards! The whole reason I started the blog was I had the same feeling you did deep down in Mexico. At first I wrote everything off over 10′ and was dedicated to nose riders only. Sure, I saw the skip scene in the seedling, but didn’t pay much attention. About ten years ago, it got real small down in southern baja. With a few lay days before the next swell, I borrowed a guys 12′ skip eagle and proceeded to have the session of a life time by myself. I rode a 1′ wave for about 250 yards that never even crowned with white water. I just stayed in trim and the power spot of this swell that never broke. The speed and the flow were effortless and I remember tons of bait fish hitting the bottom of the board as I zipped down the point. Anyhow, it sent me on a crazed obsession with getting a 12′ eagle of my own. My quest has been fulfilled and have experienced other great shapers takes on the big boards. Rich Pavel, Skip Frye, Larry Mabile, and most recently Dave Parmenter. So much fun on these boards, almost drug like. Keep Big Slidin brother………………………….

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